Greg KesslerBackstage at Carolina Herrera, the stylist Tabitha Simmons, dressed in a leopard coat, black pants and booties, was sitting on one of the makeup stools talking with Diane Kendal before all the models rolled in. Across the way Nike Air Max 95 Womens, in the hair department (the two are at separate Lincoln Center studios, with racks of clothes in between), Joan Smalls sat underneath Orlando Pita and one of his hair-dryer-wielding assistants as Pita prepped her hair for what he described as “teasing, hairspray, teasing and more hairspray.” For Smalls, he said he didn’t need any product aside from Moroccan Oil Luminous Hairspray to build up the crown. “The less we stress the hair, the better,” he said, explaining that he’d give Smalls a bottle of Moroccan Oil treatment “to use on her 10 minutes off.” Each model was wearing a curious black loop around her neck, which turned out to be a headband that would crown the teased up hair when done. Some girls would also have the ends pulled back and secured with a black bow. It was statement hair for Herrera, which meant Kendal wanted subtle makeup. Back to the other side, where she was using M.A.C. Sculpt contouring powder and Tenderling blush on cheeks, Taupe eyeshadow on lids and Black Cremestick Liner applied superclose to the lash line with a little brush. “It’s a beautiful, soft effect, without looking too normal,” she said of the liner bleeding in between the lashes as a substitute for mascara. There was no lipstick; instead, lips were tinged with Spice lip pencil. “We’re enhancing without laying down color,” Kendal said. “On the runway the girls look beautiful, but you can’t see what’s been done.”
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